Embroidery file formats explained: DST, PES, EXP, JEF and more

Embroidery file formats confuse almost everyone at first. Unlike images, embroidery files are instructions for a machine: where the needle goes, when to trim and when to change thread. And every machine brand has its own format. Here's what you need to know.

Stitch files vs artwork files

There are two kinds of embroidery files:

• Machine (stitch) files such as DST, PES, EXP and JEF. Your machine reads these and sews them.

• Working (master) files from digitizing software, such as EMB (Wilcom) or Hatch's native format. These can be fully edited.

A stitch file is like a printed page and the master is like the Word document. You can make small changes to a stitch file, but real edits happen in the master.

The main embroidery formats

DST (Tajima)

DST is the most widely accepted format. It's used by commercial multi-needle machines (Tajima, Barudan, SWF, Ricoma, Happy and others) and almost every embroidery program can read it. DST stores color changes but not thread colors, so your machine shows default colors and you set the threads from a stitch sheet.

PES (Brother and Baby Lock)

PES is used by Brother and Baby Lock machines, from home single-needle models to multi-needles. It does store thread colors.

EXP (Melco and Bernina)

EXP is Melco's expanded format and is also read by Bernina machines.

JEF (Janome)

JEF is Janome's format, used on Janome home and multi-needle machines.

VP3 (Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff)

VP3 is used by Husqvarna Viking and Pfaff machines and stores thread colors.

Others

You may also see XXX (Singer), HUS (older Husqvarna Viking) and ART (Bernina's native design format).

Which format does my machine need?

Check your manual or the machine's USB menu. As a quick guide:

• Commercial multi-needle: DST

• Brother or Baby Lock: PES

• Janome: JEF

• Bernina: EXP (or ART)

• Husqvarna Viking or Pfaff: VP3

When in doubt, a good digitizer will send several formats.

What to send your digitizer

Good results start with good information. Send:

• The clearest artwork you have. A vector is ideal, but a sharp photo works.

• The finished size. Typical sizes are 3–4 in (75–100 mm) wide for a left chest, up to about 2.25 in (57 mm) tall for a cap front, and 10–12 in (250–300 mm) wide for a jacket back.

• The garment and fabric: polo, fleece, cap, towel, or a patch.

• Your machine or the file format you need.

• Thread colors, or Pantone references to match.

Can I resize an embroidery file?

Only a little. A stitch file has a fixed number of stitches, so enlarging it spreads them out (gaps) and shrinking packs them in (stiff, bulletproof patches and thread breaks). Around 10–20% is usually safe. Beyond that, the design should be re-digitized at the new size.

Why a JPG isn't enough

Converting a logo image straight into stitches with "auto-digitize" usually sews badly. A digitizer decides:

• Stitch types: satin for borders and text, fill for large areas, running stitch for detail

• Stitch direction, so the design catches the light and doesn't pull

• Underlay, the foundation stitches that stabilize the fabric

• Pull compensation, which widens shapes slightly because thread pulls fabric inward

• Density and trims, matched to the fabric and the garment

That's why digitizing is a craft, not a file conversion. Small lettering is the hardest part: text below about 0.25 in (6 mm) tall needs special care to stay readable.

Get your logo digitized

Send us your logo, even a blurry one. We'll redraw it as clean art first, then hand digitize it for your fabric and machine, with a stitch-out sheet included. Embroidery digitizing starts at $25 with unlimited edits. Making patches? See patch design.